Introducing

"The Ionic Fluid Antenna" [IFA]

by David H. Hatch - N9ZRT

 

 

HISTORY

I feel quite certain, the IFA [Ionic Fluid Antenna] is something new. I contacted an electrical engineer when I started all this experimenting. I asked him, "What is the best ratio of water-to-salt to make the highest conductivity of saltwater?" I told him I was experimenting with a tube of saltwater as an antenna.

He replied back that it would not work as an antenna, that RF energy would only radiate through metals. I wrote back and told him that I had just talked to Australia on my saltwater antenna. He wrote back and said, "I'll be damned! I just checked with another engineer here with me, and he said, in theory, yes, it could be done."

It was done, and it was working!

I am no engineer, just a curious amateur. Bear with me.

 

 

DESCRIPTION

 

 

TESTS SO FAR

[All in "Portable" operation]

Gear:

Radio: Icom 706MKIIG

Antenna Tuner: SGC Supertuner, Model 231

Counterpoises: 1946 Willys Jeep - 1993 Plymouth Voyager

Preliminary Test Results:

In limited tests so far, the IFA outperformed 4g copper wire of the same length [Suspended side by side], with the IFA presenting a stronger signal report and better quality audio than the copper. Tests continue.

 

IONIC FLUID ANTENNA VARIATIONS

Garden Hose as IFA as a long-wire.

Dipole [Pre-set length, as well as pumpable versions]

Vertical [Pre-set level lengths, as well as pumpable versions]

Mock "Sweetwater" Hummingbird Bird Feeder as as pre-set length vertical IFA.

 

THE SPECIFIC GRAVITY [SALT CONCENTRATION IN H2O] OF THE SALINE SOLUTION

The Specific Gravity of Saline in my prototypes: 1170+ @ 65 degrees F. [Specific Gravity of Seawater: 1020 +/-.]

My science research, with assistance from others, showed that the amount of salt dissolved into water, showed a purpetual increase in conductivity. That is, you cannot have too much salt in the water. Or, the more salt dissolved, the more conductive the water.Seawater has a specific gravity of about 1020 +/-. I got my solution [kept in a large new plastic garbage pail] to reach 1170 at 65 degrees.You can buy a hydrometer and plastic tube for measuring the SG at brewery supply stores [Beer and wine]. They are under $10 I think.

HOW TO BUILD A BASIC MULTI-BAND HF IONIC FLUID ANTENNA

Note: You do not have to follow the exact recipe below, or be an RF engineer to make this cool antenna. When you shop for the PVC, remember that you simply want a 10 foot tube with at least one threaded cap end. When I go to the PVC store, I play around with the various fittings right there in the aisle. Make sure yours all fit snug, actually fit them on to eachother, to see. No one likes repeat trips to the store, especially for returns. Just make sure you come home with a 10 foot PVC and fittings to make a watertight tube with at least one removable end. I made mine with both ends threaded, but you don't have to. PVC is so cheap, why not?

SHOPPING LIST

2 inch x 10 foot PVC pipe [Any wall thickness]*

Two female 2" PVC threaded sleeves*

Two male 2" PVC threaded caps with square, "wrenchable", type ends.*

PVC glue [For leak prevention]

One roll ofTeflon tape [For leak prevention]

A small portion of fresh Silicone [For leak prevention]

6 inches of heavy copper braid, 4 or 6 g [For RF input/probes]

8 inch +/- medium weight rope [For suspension system]

2 inch stainless hoseclamp [For suspension system]*

3 gallons of water**

Several pounds of granulated table salt [5-10 pounds]***

25 feet [or so] of rope [For suspension system]

Hydrometer and clear measuring cylinder [Optional]

 

*To make a "Fat Boy" [10 foot x 4 inch IFA], substitute all 2 inch items to 4 inch.

**For a "Fat Boy", prepare with 6+ gallons of water.

*** For a "Fat Boy", prepare with 10-20 pounds of salt. Granulated dissolves best.

 

ASSEMBLY DIRECTIONS

  1. Take the 10 foot PVC pipe, prepare ends by sanding where the female sleeves will go on both ends.
  2. Glue female both ends on 10 ft PVC.
  3. Solder 1 inch of one end of the copper braid. Solder it as solid as possible to prevent water coming through the strands.
  4. Bend the braid into an "L", with the soldered end being the short end of the "L". This portion will stick out of the PVC cap.
  5. Drill a hole in one of the squared wrenchable cap ends. Make the hole on the side, so that when the antenna is standing on it's end, there will be no pressure on the protruding braid [RF connection].
  6. Insert the braid into the hole, so the unsoldered end comes out to the inner-side of the cap.
  7. De-braid the copper braid, making it like a spider. Bend the strands [Hence called, "probes"] so they "sit" on the inside of the cap. Bend the tips inward, so when the cap in inserted into the tube [Antenna], they will not snag.
  8. Silicone the inside very liberally, avoiding any silicone from getting on the probes. [Let it cure for several hours]
  9. Silicone the outer portion of the drilled hole, avoiding the silicone from getting on the RF connection [Soldered braid]. [Let it cure for several hours]
  10. Liberally, teflon tape wrap the male thread on the cap end with probes, and snug into the female fitting [Base of antenna].
  11. Heat 3 gallons of tap water to a boil. Pour salt into the water and stir continuously until no more salt will dissolve. Extra salt will fall to the bottom. Let cool.
  12. Note: I have successfully used rock salt and found it to dissolve "OK" in hot water, when stirred. I keep a 50 gallon plastic garbage pail outside, with my saline solution in it. When making a large batch, I have run a garden hose from my hot water tap into the saline reservoir, and stirred in the rock salt, mixing the batch with a canoe paddle. The reservoir, at this writing, is sitting in 15 degree F weather, and looks as clear and ice-free as a summer swimming pool!

  13. Set 10 foot PVC on a firm seating, at a 45 degree angle, with the probe end down. Best to do this outside. Note that spillage will kill grass.
  14. Pour the saline into the tube until full.
  15. Teflon tape other male cap. Snug into place.
  16. Take short rope and tie a knot in each end.
  17. Using hose clamp, clamp short rope to top end of antenna [Top is opposite end of probes].
  18. Find overhang, and mount suspension rope.
  19. Suspend antenna, checking for leaks.
  20. Tune and go on the air.

 

MAINTAINING YOUR COPPER PROBES

First, copper can be substituted for a "high nickel blend" of stainless steel. This will minimize corrosion. If using copper, the threaded PVC cap allows for easy cap removal. Thus allowing you to inspect and / or clean the copper probes. I have found it best to clean them once a month, and to use fine steel wool. Be sure to top-off the saline solution in the tube, and put on fresh teflon tape before replacing the threaded cap. Now, go back on the air and have a blast! 

 

THE EXPERIMENTING GOES ON

This IFV is a long way from being perfected! Variations in many aspects of the antenna may show improvement in performance. Yet to be tested are other Ionic Fluids, some more conductive than others. However, some Ionic Fluids are dangerous, and expensive. There are even different kinds of salts that have yet to be tried, such as Copper Chloride. Using saltwater is the real meaning of "Homebrew". It's easily available, quite safe, and easy to prepare.

 

"SKIN EFFECT" VS POOL BALLS

I have learned that RF energy on a metallic antenna, resonates off the "skin" of the metal. As I understand it, solid copper wire will not resonate any better than hollow copper of the same thickness. I have been told that when RF energy goes into a metal antenna, the signal travels through the matrix of atoms on the outside of that metal, rapidly "hopping" from one atom to another. Therefore, the metal being solid, does not help it radiate. Correct me if I am wrong on this. That is how I learn.

Another engineer-friend, confessed to me about the IFA, "I do not understand the physics of what you are doing. It does not make sense!" He explained, that with my saltwater antenna, the atoms are more like pool balls. They have to bump into each other, in the solution.

In theory, the antenna should be less efficient. Additionally, the "skin effect" may not be at work in this antenna. Then what is? Is the entire diameter of the tube radiating then?

It is possible, and yet to be shown, that in the case of the IFA, the "fatter" the antenna [The greater the diameter of the tube, filled with Iconic Fluid], is more efficient. That would then result in a stronger signal and possible better audio quality report than wire. I have asked engineers this question, and they have only questions, not answers. Recall, in my preliminary tests, the saltwater antenna outperformed [In signal strength and audio quality] a 4 g copper wire of the same length.

My test went like this…

I suspended a 10 foot x 2 inch IFA from a tree limb. Next to it, at the same height, I suspended a "Fat Boy" IFA [10 feet x 4 inches]. Then, next to that, a 4 g copper wire, 10 feet long. All verticals, all in a row. My 1946 Willys Jeep was the counterpoise and the power supply.

I got two hams on the radio, one in a fixed station, and one mobile, who pulled off to the side of the road. I told them what I was doing. They agreed to work the test with me. They reported that the weakest signal strength and audio was with the 10 foot copper wire. The 10 foot x 2 inch IFA was stronger, and the 10 foot x 4 inch IFA was stronger yet.